The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs co

Mombasa’s biggest tourist attraction dominates the harbor entrance at the end of Nkurumah road. The metre thick coral walls make it an imposing edifice, despite being partially ruined. The fort was built by the Portuguese in 1593 to enforce their rule over the coastal Swahilis, but they rarely managed to hold onto it for long. It changed hands at least nine times in bloody sieges between 1631 and 1875, finally falling under British control.

The fort was the final project completed by Italian architect Joao Batista Cairato in his long career as chief architect for Portugal’s eastern colonies. There are some ingenious elements in its design, especially the angular configuration of the west walls, which makes it impossible to attack one wall without being a sitting duck for soldiers on the opposite battlements.

The fort houses a museum, built over the former barracks. The exhibits are mostly ceramics, reflecting the variety of cultures that traded along the coast, but include other interesting odds and ends donated from private collections or dug up from sites along the coast. Also displayed are finds from the Portuguese frigate Santo Antonio de Tanna which sank near the fort during the siege in 1698, and the far end of the hall is devoted to the fascinating culture and traditions o the nine coastal Mijikenda tribes, including a map of sacred forests

Exploring the battlements and ruined buildings within the compound is just as interesting, though the fort feels much smaller than it looks from the outside. The Omani House in the san Fellipe bastion, in the northwestern corner of the fort, was built in the late 18th century and houses a small exhibition of Omani jewellery and artifacts.

Nearby is a ruined church, a huge well and cistern, and an excavated grave complete with skeleton. The eastern wall of the fort includes the Omani audience hall and the passage of the Arches, a passage cut through the coral to give access to the sea.

Most coach tours arrive here late in the morning, so if you come early you may have the place to yourself. Many official and unofficial guides will offer their services, often for free, though a tip is always expected. Alternatively, you can buy the 1981 fort Jesus guide booklet (Kshs 60) from the ticket desk and go it alone. At 7pm there is a daily ‘sound and light show’ illustrating the forts history, organised by Jahazi Marine. Tickets cost US$15.

2. Religious Buildings Mombasa has some interesting mosques; non-Muslims are usually not permitted to enter, although you can look from the outside. The dozen or so mosques in the old town are the most traditional, while more modern examples in town include the Sheikh Nurein Islamic Centre opposite Uhuru gardens, and the Khonzi mosque on Digo Rd.

You’ll get a warm reception at the Hindu Lord Shiva Temple Mwinyi Ab Rd which has an interesting sculpture garden, and Swaminarayan Temple on Haile selassie, which has some wonderfully ornate painted doors and vivid paintings from Hindu mythology. For even more exotic design, there’s a Sikh temple, a Jain temple and a Hare Krishna Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering any of these buildings, and its worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.

The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs cos

The fort houses a museum, built over the former barracks. The exhibits are mostly ceramics, reflecting the variety of cultures that traded along the coast, but include other interesting odds and ends donated from private collections or dug up from sites along the coast. Also displayed are finds from the Portuguese frigate Santo Antonio de Tanna which sank near the fort during the siege in 1698, and the far end of the hall is devoted to the fascinating culture and traditions o the nine coastal Mijikenda tribes, including a map of sacred forests

Exploring the battlements and ruined buildings within the compound is just as interesting, though the fort feels much smaller than it looks from the outside. The Omani House in the san Fellipe bastion, in the northwestern corner of the fort, was built in the late 18th century and houses a small exhibition of Omani jewellery and artifacts.

Nearby is a ruined church, a huge well and cistern, and an excavated grave complete with skeleton. The eastern wall of the fort includes the Omani audience hall and the passage of the Arches, a passage cut through the coral to give access to the sea.

Most coach tours arrive here late in the morning, so if you come early you may have the place to yourself. Many official and unofficial guides will offer their services, often for free, though a tip is always expected. Alternatively, you can buy the 1981 fort Jesus guide booklet (Kshs 60) from the ticket desk and go it alone. At 7pm there is a daily ‘sound and light show’ illustrating the forts history, organised by Jahazi Marine. Tickets cost US$15.

2. Religious Buildings Mombasa has some interesting mosques; non-Muslims are usually not permitted to enter, although you can look from the outside. The dozen or so mosques in the old town are the most traditional, while more modern examples in town include the Sheikh Nurein Islamic Centre opposite Uhuru gardens, and the Khonzi mosque on Digo Rd.

You’ll get a warm reception at the Hindu Lord Shiva Temple Mwinyi Ab Rd which has an interesting sculpture garden, and Swaminarayan Temple on Haile selassie, which has some wonderfully ornate painted doors and vivid paintings from Hindu mythology. For even more exotic design, there’s a Sikh temple, a Jain temple and a Hare Krishna Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering any of these buildings, and its worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.

The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs co

Nearby is a ruined church, a huge well and cistern, and an excavated grave complete with skeleton. The eastern wall of the fort includes the Omani audience hall and the passage of the Arches, a passage cut through the coral to give access to the sea.

Most coach tours arrive here late in the morning, so if you come early you may have the place to yourself. Many official and unofficial guides will offer their services, often for free, though a tip is always expected. Alternatively, you can buy the 1981 fort Jesus guide booklet (Kshs 60) from the ticket desk and go it alone. At 7pm there is a daily ‘sound and light show’ illustrating the forts history, organised by Jahazi Marine. Tickets cost US$15.

2. Religious Buildings Mombasa has some interesting mosques; non-Muslims are usually not permitted to enter, although you can look from the outside. The dozen or so mosques in the old town are the most traditional, while more modern examples in town include the Sheikh Nurein Islamic Centre opposite Uhuru gardens, and the Khonzi mosque on Digo Rd.

You’ll get a warm reception at the Hindu Lord Shiva Temple Mwinyi Ab Rd which has an interesting sculpture garden, and Swaminarayan Temple on Haile selassie, which has some wonderfully ornate painted doors and vivid paintings from Hindu mythology. For even more exotic design, there’s a Sikh temple, a Jain temple and a Hare Krishna Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering any of these buildings, and its worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.

The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs co

2. Religious Buildings Mombasa has some interesting mosques; non-Muslims are usually not permitted to enter, although you can look from the outside. The dozen or so mosques in the old town are the most traditional, while more modern examples in town include the Sheikh Nurein Islamic Centre opposite Uhuru gardens, and the Khonzi mosque on Digo Rd.

You’ll get a warm reception at the Hindu Lord Shiva Temple Mwinyi Ab Rd which has an interesting sculpture garden, and Swaminarayan Temple on Haile selassie, which has some wonderfully ornate painted doors and vivid paintings from Hindu mythology. For even more exotic design, there’s a Sikh temple, a Jain temple and a Hare Krishna Temple. Shoes should be removed before entering any of these buildings, and its worth asking about any other appropriate signs of respect.

The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs co

The two main Christian churches are also worth seeing, for rather different reasons. The Holy Ghost cathedral is a very European hunk of neo-gothic buttressed architecture, with massive fans in the walls to cool its former colonial congregations. The Mombasa Memorial Cathedral, on the other hand, tries almost too hard to fit in, resembling a mosque with its white walls, arches and cupola dome.

3. Old Law courts The old law courts on Nkrumah Rd have been converted into an informal gallery, with regularly changing of local at, Kenyan crafts, school competition pieces and votive objects from various tribal groups.

4. Golf Drive, chip and putt to your heart are content at Mombasa Golf Club, perched on the southeastern edge of the island. Day membership is Kshs 1500, clubs cost Kshs 800 per day and caddies cost Kshs 100 per nine hole round.

5. Sailing

If you can sail, it may be worth joining Mombasa Yacht club. Temporary membership cost Ksh100/500 per day/week. Wednesday is club night, where qualified sailors may be able to talk themselves into some crewing, and there are usually races on Sunday. Those hoping to hitch a lift on a passing yacht will have a better (though remote) chance in Mtwapa or in Kilifi Boatyard.